Pour it like the Basques do, from a foot or so above the glass, to bring out the ever-so-slight fizzy quality that makes this wine so refreshing. It’s great with fish tacos but also with salted ...

Then, add the fish—any mild fillet or steak will do. (King salmon is a showstopper; cod, grouper, rockfish, and flounder work beautifully, too.) Next, tip in a generous splash of wine.