“Tortilla presses don’t work here,” he says, “it just makes the tortillas tough and they spring back, so you gotta be patient.” He plops one on the flat-top grill to cook.

Add the garlic, onion, chile powders and the cumin and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato sauce and 1 cup of water; bring to a simmer.